The tools and methods taught will all be traditional. The course will be packed with details that usually require a lengthy apprenticeship to learn. There's a lot to cover, so bring tools, hands and be ready to work!

This class will be a hands-on workshop beginning with sharpening and setting up chisels and hand planes. Then moving into layout and cutting of basic joinery. You'll practice these skills building a traditional Japanese beam and trestle sawhorse.

We'll start by tuning up your water stones. Then learn basic setup and sharpening technique on your own chisel. We cover removing and resetting the handle, fitting the handle ring, preparing the back, dealing with the hollow ground, blade angles and subtleties of honing with Japanese water stones.

Sharpening is done by hand with no guides in the traditional manner. Next we move into the hand plane, first learning to flatten the back using the "Uradashi" technique of forming the blade with a hammer and anvil.

Then honing on a steel plate for perfect accuracy. Finish sharpening and trimming the blade as necessary. Next the chip breaker is carefully shaped, honed and fit to the main blade.

With the blades ready, the block is trimmed as needed and fit with the blades. A scraper plane can then be set up and used to shape the plane base to the proper contours. Finally learn how to micro- adjust the blade settings and make shavings!

On to the project, we begin by discussing wood grain types and proper orientation. Then step by step layout of the jointery. We'll be using wedged Mortise and Tenons and offset square-pinned Mortise and Tenon. These are typical Post and Beam construction joints.

Next we'll cover basic chisel mortising techniques while cutting out the tenon mortises and pin mortises by hand. When ready we'll cover details of the Japanese saws with a demonstration of adjusting the teeth for a straight cut. Then use of the saw while hand cutting our tenons. Next final trimming and tenon shoulder adjustments.

On to hand planing to finish the surfaces. Assemble the parts; Drive in the wedges and pins; and final trimming.

Don't bring glue, you won't need it! These sawhorses will be stout enough to pass on to your grandchildren!

Note:

You will need to bring your own tools to this class. We'll be adding some recommended tools (from either Hida Tools or Japan Woodworker) shortly. We're also looking to provide Kanaban (flattening plates) and Anvils for you to buy in class.

Tool list:

• Chisels- 18 mm (3/4"), 12mm (1/2") & 3~6mm (1/8") required but bring other various sizes if you have them; Bring at least 1 new Japanese chisel.
• Hand planes- 1 new Japanese plane at least 50 mm wide (with laminated steel chip breaker). 1 Japanese scraper plane (tachiganna) any size, but wide is recommended.
• Saws- 1 small Ryoba (double-edged) saw: 210~240mm. Also bring a Dozuki (Japanese Backsaw) if you have it.
• Sharpening Stones- Japanese water stones: 1 medium (1000~1200 grit), 1 finish stone (minimum 4000 grit).
• Kanaban- Steel plate for lapping. Min. size 3" X 10" X ¼"thick. Must be flat and smooth on 1 face. If possible get cold rolled steel (not hardened). Can usually be gotten cheap at a scrap steelyard. Take a straight edge along and get a flat one.
• Anvil- Any chunk of metal that is soft (not hardened) big enough to be stable with a rounded corner at least 1 ~2" wide.
• 220 grit wet dry sandpaper- 2 or 3 sheets.
• Small water bucket
• Hammers- 1 medium size 375~550g & 1 small size 100~250g.
• MISC.- Pencil, square, straight edge (beveled is preferred) & a small round or ½ round metal file, rags.
  

Materials list:

Softwood such as Doug Fir is best. (These are minimum lengths). You can bring your own wood or buy a kit from us.

• Beam 3" X 3" – 2@3'-2"
• Posts 2¾" X 2¾" – 4@2'-0
• Stretcher 1¼" X 3" – 2@3'-0
• Feet 3" X 5"+ – 4@ 1'-8"
• Pins (Oak) 5/8" square- 4@ 6"

Class size:              10       
Cost:                       $650
Materials Charge:   $75 (Sawhorse kit)